Drawn by Michael Palin’s report on Amritsar in his series Himalaya, this was the first stopover on a journey through north-east India. As Amritsar is home to the Harmandir Sahib (Golden Temple), it is the spiritual and cultural centre for the Sikh religion. In the temple kitchen, every day volunteers prepare 100.000 meals for the pilgrims, because, according to Sikh belief, one can not concentrate on prayer with an empty stomach. The city centre of Amritsar was being renovated in the summer of 2016, so the whole town looked like a construction site. But between the rubble and mud, the streets were full of tourists, pilgrims, merchands and craftsmen. Business as usual.